Monday, December 31, 2007

Japanese New Year cards




Here we see the Delightful Miss E, hard at work preparing her New Year cards, an important tradition here in Japan. The cards should be sent to all one's friends and acquaintances, to thank them for being good to one in the year past and wish the continuation of their favour in the new year. The cards usually take the animal of the new year as their theme, so the cards you can see the Delightful Miss E writing have mice, the first syllable of the word for mouse ("ne") and lucky symbols galore spread over them. Since the Delightful Miss E is delightfully obssessed with stationary, there are also many mouse-y and happy stamps and seals sprayed haphazardly across the face of the card. (The writing paper you see in the pile of materials Miss E is using, is probably for the purpose of checking the writing of unusual address kanji).

Common slogans include "thank you for showing me favour in the year gone by, and please also treat me kindly in the year to come", "please enjoy an honourable new year", and such like. We chose our level of formality according to the person receiving the card, with I think one card using the super-formal passive voice: "much honourable assistance was received in the year which has passed; I humbly wish that you would deign to pass down to me similar favour in the coming year".

New Year is a time of many such crazy formalities here: we sent "osebo", gifts of practical use, to three individuals who have helped us over the previous year. They have already received these gifts, but by some miracle of organisation have not yet received their cards. This is because, although New Year's Day is a public holiday, the post office somehow conspire to deliver the entire nation's cards on that day. There is even a special kanji ("Nenga") written on the card to guarantee it is delivered on the day, and a separate post box at the post office for these cards. And people take this stuff seriously - when posting ours I saw some people bringing in wads of cards the thickness of decks of playing cards. That is hard work! We, however, being new to Matsue and new to this tradition, only had 14 cards to send. Though of course, they felt like the work of 50, because we had to learn and write the kanji for 14 addresses (which kanji we have promptly forgotten). For card writers and postal workers alike, this time of year is truly a challenging and complex period!

Monday, December 10, 2007

Lingerie University...

While out for dinner last night with the rumbunctious Lady and Dr. S, I learnt a terrible new secret about Japan. Lady S, you see, is a graduate of a certain famous and esteemed Japanese Women's University, which has existed since before the Showa era, and for all the time of its existence has never allowed a single chap to study there. Upon hearing that Lady S had spent 6 years on this esteemed campus, both the Delightful Miss E and myself were eager to find out what life is like studying in the absence of men.

Lady S: "It's fun!"

Sir S (i.e. me, there are too many S'sss in this story): "How so?"

Lady S (looking slightly embarrassed): "Well, I probably shouldn't reveal these things about my University's system, but you see... in summer we would ... study naked ... because it was so hot!"

Sir S: ....

The Delightful Miss E: ....

It turned out upon further investigation that Lady S was using a slightly incorrect version of the word "naked". In fact, in Summer the women at this Certain University would study in their underwear - not naked. Usually in camisoles, to be precise. About half the women in a class would dress this way, with the other half wearing normal clothes (which strangely, in Japanese summer, means more clothes than winter). The other half would strip off as soon as they arrived at the University, and gad about all day in their diaphanous underthings, studying English and Japanese and God only knows what other sinister secret arts...

... upon asking about this amusing scene - half the young scholars in jeans and t-shirts and multiple layers of overshirts, as young women are wont to wear here in summer, and lounging around with them a bevy of undershirted beauties - Lady S revealed that the University has a middle and a high school, naturally for girls only. Women who have graduated from these schools and entered the University have only ever studied in this way during summer, and so naturally choose to continue their choice of sensible attire in the cozy environs of their all-female college. The other women studied at school with boys, and so have no stomach for public lingerie-lounging. But was it really all female? I return to the conversation...

the Delightful Miss E: "What about the teachers - were they all women?"

Lady S (giggling at our foolish incomprehension of basic manners): "No! Of course not! But they were teachers, not men!"

Sir S: "So you lounged around in class in front of your teachers wearing just your underwear?"

Lady S: "Of course."

Sir S (to his eternal shame): "I'm getting a job there!"

Dr S (Lady S's husband): "Yes! Let's!"

I always knew women here are quite quick to turn public spaces into little slumber parties, constructing women's spaces in lecture theatres and cafes using those cute blankets they take with them, separating themselves from the boys and running around in dangerous gaggles of giggling gushiness. But I never realised they would take it to the extreme of attending lectures as if they were in their own bedroom... what an accursed vision of languid Oriental exoticism it presents to this jaded western eye, and oh! how terribly suspicious I am that the good Lady and Dr. S were pulling our legs ferociously...

Saturday, December 08, 2007

Mid-December news roundup!

I have decided to post occasional roundups of local news, as it comes through to me. This mostly means writing about what I have read in the Daily Yomiuri over the last few weeks, since I don't get my news from anywhere else. Below this post I shall give a few more detailed explanations of things I have read and thought about. Stay tuned for more of these in the future!

  • Japan's crime rate has dropped by 28% in 4 years, according to the Japan Urban Crime Research Institute, which published its latest map of crime in Japan. Matsue's rate is a whopping 7-12 crimes per 1000 (comparison: NSW, Australia has an average rate of at least 85 per 1000). (See below for my view of this)
  • Japan's farms are becoming poorer and less productive, and the Japanese agricultural sector is in potentially catastrophic decline. Bold political moves are required to revitalise the sector, but the rural gerrymander in this country is a strong political effect, so probably nothing will happen (see below for my view of this)
  • The movie "Love Sky" (Koizora) has been released. This is a crazy-sounding movie about 2 young people who fall in love, go through various tribulations, and then probably explode or something. It's quirky trait is that it is based on a cell-phone novel ("keitai shosetsu"), a new genre in Japan of novels which are written on and broadcast to cellphones. These novels have their own attendant controversy (see here for an Australian take on this)
  • Asashoryu, the Sumo Grandmaster, has returned to Japan and training after taking some time off in his native Mongolia to reflect on his wayward attitude. The controversy over this chap has been raging here for months since he was filmed playing soccer in Mongolia, while bludging off of a big Sumo tournament under the excuse of a bad back. I think this is ridiculous - this man has to lift 120kg men out of a wrestling ring, which is an activity much more in need of a good back than playing social soccer in Mongolia. The media frenzy around this chap reminds me of when Mark Latham was too depressed to talk to the media, but someone on talkback radio claimed to have seen him playing with his kids. I mean, really!
In other news, it has rained every day in Matsue for a week. Night-time temperatures are routinely around 4 or 5 degrees, and the locals are complaining that winter is much warmer than usual. Some people are just crazy!

News roundup 2: infirm farms

The recent elections here in Japan led to a change in the balance of power in the upper house, from the Liberal Democratic Party (LDP) to the Democratic Party of Japan (DPJ). The DPJ benefitted partly from a swing in farming areas against the farmers' traditional ally, the LDP, and the first response of the newly-changed upper house was to pass a law passing pork-barrelling funds to rural areas. This law will likely be rejected in the lower house, but it displays the importance of farmers to the electoral process here.

Which is interesting, because farmers only constitute a tiny minority of the population, and Japan's calorific food self sufficiency has dropped from 78% after the war to 35% (compared with Australia, on a regular self sufficiency of about 250%). The average size of a Japanese farm is 1.2 hectares, compared with 3700 in Australia. There is a lot of resistance in Japan to improving farming efficiency, resistance which has been aided and abetted by pork-barelling political parties for many years. As a consequence farmers have become older (nearly 60% of farmers are aged over 65) and farms smaller, with many farmers also working part-time outside their main company job.

Because the farmers are propped up by subsidies, and many have shifted to part-time work, they have little incentive to make their farm work more efficient, or to leave the land and sell to a more committed farmer (or a company). Many have discovered that they can earn much more money by selling to development companies than to other farmers, so they are sitting on their land, using it unproductively, while they wait for a development company to make an offer. Of course, the main way to improve efficiency in modern farms is to enlarge them, but land reform is not possible while farmers are unwilling to sell to other farmers. The current DPJ pork-barrel proposal offers money to these part-time farmers to continue farming, essentially ensuring they are subsidized while waiting to sell on to a developer.

Obviously because Japan has such a huge manufacturing economy, it is easy for governments to look the other way from farming reform. No amount of improvements in farming efficiency will ever make Japanese farms relevant to the economy, which is after all still the world's largest exporter of high-tech products. But there is something creepy in the eyes of many people to be living in a country which cannot support its own population at a basic subsistence level (interestingly, Britain is in a similar though not so serious position). The best way to improve this situation is to liberalise and economise farming practices, but there is no incentive when farmers are an easy voting bloc and the impact on the economy will be zero. Particularly in an era of deflation, when food prices are stable anyway. Liberalising and economising farming practices also always means short term pain for some farmers, who have to sell up and piss off. Why should a rich country bother?

I have mixed feelings about this because liberalising farming here essentially means destroying the system of traditional farming which makes the Japanese countryside both so tight-knit and peaceful, and so quintessentially Japanese. Replacing smallholders with big combines, replacing hand-picked rice paddies with massive machine-intensive rice factories, and removing the small mountainside paddocks we now see, would completely change the look and feel of rural Japan, which I really appreciate now that I live here. I also wonder if it would have positive environmental effects. In addition to the usual problems of industrial-scale farming - in a country with a generally very clean and pure rural environment - Japan has a tradition of "satoyama", small forested mountains and hills scattered through the landscape. These satoyama are not only a crucial part of the image of the Japanese countryside - they contain much of the biodiversity and forest which stabilises the Japanese environment. As farm sizes shrink and farmers retire these satoyama are going untended, reducing their environmental benefits and (strangely) affecting how much of Japan's extensive forests can be counted in the Kyoto agreement. I wonder if industrialising farming would hasten this decline or slow it down, but I rather suspect the former.

Some farmers have maybe seen this problem coming, and are starting to do what South Australian farmers did years ago, rejigging their farming practices to produce luxury goods for export. Economically this is a good idea, but in terms of protecting Japan's food self-sufficiency it is probably counter-productive. I suppose Japan has to ask itself whether it wants to change its rural economy in order to protect itself against the collapse of foreign food markets (which is what self-sufficiency is really all about) or if it wants to see a permanent decline in its farming sector, in order to protect existing rural communities. I suspect this latter decision will never work, because rural communities are always ruined by all their young people leaving (as we saw in, for example, Inomecho, when we visited with our friends last year). But the decision to industrialise could be just as devastating. I suppose this leaves only one option, the option taken by the Scottish and, to a lesser extent, New Zealand: tourism...

... for which I am doing my bit, hosting visitors to rural Japan as often as I can. And they say foreign residents can't be patriotic!

News roundup 1: Japanese crime falls again

The Japan Urban Security Research Institue released its regional crime map for 2006 this week, revealing that reported crime rates have dropped by 28% since 2002, when the last map was prepared, and all areas of Japan appear to have experienced a reduction in crime. I can't find the map online, but it is striking for the generally low level of reported crime. The highest category of crime shown in the map - for some areas of Tokyo and Osaka - is "38 to 71 total crimes per 1000 people". Rainy Matsue's region is coloured dark green, putting it in the second lowest category at "7 to 11.8 crimes per 1000 people."

It is difficult to find overall crime statistics for Australia, but a spreadsheet from the Bureau of Crime Statistics and Research gives 2006 crime rates in categories, and if we exclude the traffic and liquor crimes the average crime rate in NSW is 85 per 1000 people. That's right folks, average crime rates in NSW are higher than Japan's maximum, and 10 times Matsue's recorded rate in the same year.

Some researchers have suggested that crime recording in Japan leaves a little to be desired, and is not entirely comparable with western crime rates, and some people have argued that even supposedly concrete measures of crime - like homicide rates - can't be trusted here due to the unwillingness (and inability ) of police to do autopsies. But the lived experience here supports the statistics (this is my fancy way of saying "the numbers feel right to me!") The place feels safer than anywhere I have ever been, and certainly the best colour to paint a map of this country would be exactly the shade of dark green on its current crime map...

As for the reason for all this, who can say? I cannot fathom why Japan's crime rate is so much lower than other countries'. The decline seems explicable though - the population is ageing, so one would expect most major categories of crime to be on decline as well.

As an aside, the absence of autopsies here interests me. It is possible that a lot of murders here go unnoticed because no autopsy is conducted even for an unusual or suspicious death , and certainly there is a recent case of a Sumo wrestler who was murdered and would have been passed off as a heart attack had his family not insisted on an autopsy. This would certainly serve to reduce the reported murder rate. I wonder though, if by doing so the police are contributing to a general sense that Japan is a safe and communal place, which in turn causes ordinary people to be less suspicious and trigger happy, and therefore makes society safer. If so, such a situation would contrast markedly with the view of some supporters of the death penalty, that a few innocent deaths are okay if the existence of the death penalty drives down murder rates overall (they become a kind of sacrifice for the public good). I somehow suspect death penalty advocates would not be so willing to apply the same logic if it could be shown that not prosecuting some crime - in fact pretending it never happened - would lower crime rates overall.