Sunday, June 11, 2006

Saikko Taiko

My friend Hiroki-san, or Mr. Hiroki in English, has a pretty and charming girlfriend called Kaori who has for the last 10 months been engaged in the hobby of Taiko drumming, a traditional Japanese musical form which involves various cool drums, a rather nice sounding bamboo flute, that crazy instrument the Japanese pluck on that sounds like a baby choking on a scared kitten, and traditional dancing. On Saturday Mr. Hiroki invited me along to Kaori`s latest performance, which was at a hotel near a lake nestled in the hills south of Tottori. I was having quite a bad morning on account of my rather unpleasant allergic reation to everything, but I have never been one to allow my imminent death to interfere in a good time (as opposed to my work or study responsibilities, which I will drop at the slightest sign of trouble), so I went along.

Yesterday was a cheerful, sunny day which was in Mr. Hiroki`s estimation quite hot (at least 30 degrees, he claimed, but I think he was talking fahrenheit). We had lunch at a cheap udon place and then tottered along to the hotel, which is in a picturesque spot. Here in Tottori you only have to turn sideways and you are surrounded by densely forested hills, rice paddies and water courses. As we drove to the hotel we passed planted rice paddies where herons and cranes stood to attention, waiting patiently for that special magical moment when tadpoles transform into frogs and leap into the mouths of predatory animals. I am looking forward to that moment - the frogs will be everywhere, and I want one to hop onto my shoe and blink at me in its little froggy way. I think some of the frogs may already be out, because I am sure I have seen a dead one; but enough of such speculation.

The Taiko started soon after we arrived, and involved maybe 4 sizes of drum, one big enough to be on a battleship, and about 10 or 15 people of both sexes hitting them with large wooden drumsticks. It started with a duet by two of the plucking instruments, to which Kaori and some other women performed a slow traditional dance which looked a little like tai chi. The women then retired to their drums, and there commenced maybe 10 minutes of fairly solid drumming which was so loud and thorough that I could feel it in my chest. This maybe wasn`t so good, since it led to a spasm of coughing so bad I had to flee the room and die in the bathroom. As a consequence I missed a cool-looking dance with fans, but came back in time for a final round of heavy drumming and chanting. Taiko has a fine rhythm, and combined with the costume and the rituals which inevitably attach themselves to all forms of Japanese life it is a fascinating thing. I certainly hope I can see some more before the end of summer!

2 Comments:

Blogger Random Citizen said...

I went to see Belle and Sebastian last night. I too was afflicted by a cough and the bass had the same effect.

Sounds like cool fun. Any legends about the forests surrounding Tottori?

11:28 AM  
Blogger Sir S said...

I think the only legend about the forests around tottori involves a samurai saving a rabbit...? or vice versa. I don't know the details, thankfully. There are also supposedly bears. The only legendary thing I have experienced from teh forests is their ability to eviscerate human lungs with one puff of their pollen.

2:37 PM  

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